Faces of the Namib

Article originally posted on GoTravel24.com

Kayang Gagiano
September 10th, 2009

As the sun sets on the Namib’s world-famous russet-toned sand dunes, they turn the colour of toasted Valencia orange peel. I am seated on the crest of a rather large one, feeling a bit like the first human to explore an alien planet as I stare out over a tranquil sea of sand. It undulates into the distance as far as the horizon stretches, looking a bit like golden cake batter poured into the world’s largest baking tray…

The day has been spent in the comfort of an air-conditioned 4×4 Toyota Landcruiser, driving in this incredible landscape, no other humans in sight. No crazy queues and camera click-happy tourists a la Sossusvlei. Oh no siree, on the exclusive Faces of the Namib 4×4 desert tour it’s just privileged you and travel companions playing like kids in the world’s biggest sandpit, guided by the experienced and friendly crew from Uri Adventures and Live the Journey.

Come evening time and the thrill of negotiating dune slip faces (eek!), checking out creepy endemic Namib crawlies (squeak!) and enjoying seriously enormous sky and desert expanses (wooowww!) gives way to the mellow campfire vibe beneath an equally enormous display of the Milky Way in all its twinkling glory.

The only sounds out here are the crackle of the campfire wood well on its way into being turned into some mean braai coals for even meaner man-sized steaks, the chuckles of fireside companions as another round of jokes accompanies another round of drinks, and the tinkle of ice in glasses of cold white wine, G and T’s and yes don’t deny it- Klippies and coke. Met eish, ja! Met eish…

The World’s Oldest Desert

The Sahara may be larger, the Gobi farther but the Namib Desert is something altogether unique. Stretching 1600 kilometres in length, but averaging a width of only about 100-odd kilometres, it is not only thought to be the world’s oldest desert (between 80 and 55 million years old) but it is also home to its highest sand dunes. While the ones you’ll be driving over might not be the absolute highest of the high – trust me when I say that the 105 metre meneer of a dune you’ll get to play on and his tricky little friends more than meet the needs of any self-respecting adrenaline junkie.

That said, the six-night/six-day Faces-tour which has you traversing the desert from East to West (Solitaire to Walvis Bay), has been carefully constructed to include “a bit of everything.”

It is aimed at those who enjoy the thrill of dune driving but also love the great outdoors and nature for nature’s sake. This is all about fresh air, laughs, excitement and some of the world’s most splendid natural scenery. It’s great as a family experience of for a bunch of friends who enjoy sleeping in a tent, testing their driving skills and stopping frequently to study anything from an unusual scorpion, to the the vista of the Kuiseb River canyon lying sprawling below, to the unique strap-shaped leaves of the Welwitschia plant, to the strange sand pillars of petrified dunes, to the ruins of an abandoned diamond mining village or the 100 year-old rusty shipwreck of the Eduard Bolen.

The tour operators also work in co-operation with the indigenous Topnaar or ≠Aonin- community, a tribe of Khoi who inhabit this section of the Namib. If you are lucky, their headman, the eloquent and fiercely proud Captain Kooitjie, might even stop by for a campfire chat on your first night out in the desert, given your camp for the night is located near enough to the Topnaar’s permanent settlement. Inexperienced, even first-time dune drivers need also not fear, the expert guides will talk you through every tricky situation and you’ll drive into Walvis feeling like a veritable “King (or Queen) of the Desert.”

Faces of the Namib Tour Itinerary:

Day one: Meet at Solitaire. Get to know each other round first of may braai fires
Day two: Solitaire to the Kuiseb river Canyon: Savannah gradually makes way for those famous red-orange dunes…
Day three: Serious desert crossing. This is the real McCoy. You, the dunes and no one else!
Day four/five: Explore Conception Bay and the deserted diamond mining towns of yore. Ghostly.
Day six: Dunes and the ocean. Seals, seagulls, shipwrecks…and the awesome Langewand where imposing dunes descend into the sea. Breathtaking.

What to bring:

Own 4×4 vehicle with extra break fluid, gear and engine oil
Sufficient petrol of diesel to drive 550km without re-fueling
Tyre pressure gauge, fuses
60 litres of washing water in Jerry cans
Bottled water and own beverages and snacks
Comprehensive camping gear and personal items
Plastic refuse bags, toilet paper, matches etc

What is provided:

Trained guides and support vehicles
Exclusive admission to dune trail though Namib Nakluft National Park
Camping-style accommodation and B&B in Walvis Bay on last night
Camping shower and toilet
Washing-up facility
Communication radios between vehicles
Three excellent meals a day

Cost:
March-July 2009: R5500 pp
From August 2009: R6000 pp
Contact “Live the Journey” at info@livethejourney.co.za
or phone 021 912 4090

Verdict:
Unique, thrilling and unforgettable